So, about the dogs...

On an earlier post from Chiloe (photo above) I made reference to the dogs in Chile and promised to explain.
I think that the best way to start is with a photo:

Many of you will assume, given your knowledge of Jim's less than enthusiastic feelings about dogs, that there is nothing unusual about him strolling past a dead dog on the street of San Pedro de Atacama. Well, dog-lovers, no need to hate on Jim. That is actually a pretty typical image here in Chile and is merely a dog napping wherever he/she so pleases.

We began noticing in Chiloe that dogs seem to have free reign.  Even here in upscale Vitacura Santiago we have noticed dogs, with their collars, out for a daily stroll sans owner or dog walker.  But in the smaller towns and neighborhoods they seem to run in packs often without dog collars so we assume they are feral or "independent."  There have been a few times when the car has been surrounded and it is difficult to navigate for fear of hitting them as they bark and run along side the moving vehicle. They walk in and out of stores, check out the merchandise at the craft markets, or appear to be guarding entrances to businesses or town squares. While people may shoo them away as a nuisance, we have yet to see a dog catcher or any other formal intervention.  There were times when we would see the same dogs running in one part of town, and then later sleeping in another location. They mostly seemed to ignore people and enjoy their canine companions.

Being surpised by what we were seeing I google searched and found a blog with a post titled "Chile: It's a Dog's Life."  

"When I first came here I was struck by the number of 'dead dogs' on busy sidewalks.  Later I discovered that they weren´t dead at all, just sleeping.  They doze wherever they want, and if that means in the middle of a busy sidewalk, no problem, everyone just steps around them,  mindful to let sleeping dogs lie."

"As an even more extreme example of humans respecting canine rights, recently, while out on an evening walk in a quiet coastal town, a dog in heat with a large number of  'suitors' managed to stop traffic while the drivers waited for the dogs to finish their business and move out of the road."

Some other things we´ve learned while being in Chile:

About fellow employees greeting each other...

I noticed this before we even exited the Santiago airport.  We were waiting to step up to the customs/immigration booth and it must have been shift change.  As each new worker arrived they kissed the person going off duty.  I thought it was interesting, but assumed it was something random. However, when we were in the grocery store doing our initial shop, same thing.  An employee arrived to work and proceeded to kiss each of the workers she passed.  We have seen it elsewhere as well.  I guess there is no concern about sexual harrassment at the workplace.  I can just imagine Jim arriving back to LPC and greeting all his fellow employees with a kiss!

About the coffee...

When we got together with Mayra and her fiance back in March, they mentioned "about the coffee..." and explained that in Chile, when you order "coffee" it means instant Nescafe!!!  You need to specify if you want "real coffee" and it may not even be available. So, Jim has been on a perpetual quest for a good cappuccino.  When we´ve been at hotels that serve breakfast, there will be pots of brewed coffee and people will pass them up and go for the hot water and little individual sized packets of Nescafe. This was so suprising to us because our image, apparently false image, of Latin American is good coffee.  That may be limited to Columbia.  

There are many Starbucks in Santiago, including this fancy one in Vitacura.

 And Juan Valdez is apparently real and brings his Colombian coffee to Santiago.

Our tour guide introduced us to Cafe Haiti.  He acknowleded that his country had a reputation for not serving good coffee.  Apparently the founder of this business agreed and figured if the waitresses wore short skirts it would bring customers in regardless of the quality of the coffee.

Even Dunkin' Donuts makes an appearance.

When we were in Puerto Varas we read about the BEST coffee in the area, even roasting their own beans.

Pretty good, but still not up to Jim's taste.  I think he will be glad to be back at Peets for his strong brew!

About the food...

I think we have already written about, and posted photos of the wonderful food, wine and cocktails! We have had excellent meals in the city as well as the small towns.  Portions are large, the dishes are exquisitely presented, and we think eating out is less expensive than back at home.  It also helps that the tip is 10% instead of 20%.  Meals usually start with courtesy bread and some sort of dip.  Some are more of a traditional salsa, others are more like an Italian bruschetta, and we´ve even had some spicy chile dips served with pestle and mortar.  Avacodos are also a mainstay and included in  many menu items. Quinoa is often part of the main or side dish  Desserts have varied based on where in Chile we´ve been (and the extent of German influence) but all delicious.

Fortunately we have been walking a lot, so I think we will still fit in the airline seats for the return trip.

About our Spanish...

Jim has done well, and his Spanish has definitely improved over the weeks we´ve been here.  I must admit I rely on him and we both consult with Google Translate.  Amazing app for your next trip!  

People are mostly very patient and helpful.  Those that have a little English are excited to help us with Spanish as well as practice their English.  We´ve had some comical interactions.  For example, one day at lunch while trying to figure out the dessert menu, the waiter tried to explain in English the type of cake and finally said "the food of the rabbit."  Oh,  carrot cake!

Overall we have found that, as opposed to Europe, English is not commonly spoken, even where one might expect it more due to tourism.  But, as we´ve talked to people it seems that this is not a common destination for English speaking tourists - they get predominatley Spanish speaking and Portuguese (from Brazil) tourists.

About the people...

People have been SO nice.  When we´ve been at restaurants or hotels and have struggled with our Spanish, the clerk or waiter will do their best and/or go and find another employee who might have a little bit more English.  Jim left his glasses on the flight south, and it was retrieved and held for him at the airport until our return flight.  We´ve had strangers offer to help navigate to the correct street when we´ve surfaced from the metro.  

Axel and Patricia gave us the name of their new English speaking neighbors who moved here less than a year ago from Australia.  We knocked on their door a few days ago to introduce ourselves and they invited us to join them and another couple for dinner on Saturday night.  Warm and wondeful people. Today they invited us to join them at their gym/country club up in the mountains.  A nice afternoon of exercise, R&R, beautiful views, good company and a nice lunch.  And pisco sours...

Of course, the more people we chat with the more ideas we get about things we should try to do during out last few days in Santiago.  We will see what we can manage to fit in!