Howth, Hubcaps and Heading Home

There were no fireworks, just a tremendous view and a bit of a drizzle as we spent our July 4th with cousins Andrea and John doing another cliff walk around Howth Head.  Howth is a fishing town on the most northern edge of Dublin Bay.  In the past it was the main harbor for Dublin.  Seemed like a good opportunity to say some goodbyes as well as to get some much needed exercise.  John has been doing hill/cliff walks for the past 20 years.  He was a wonderful leader in spite of not having done this trail in about 5 years.  

Putting my hiking faith in John 

The Howth trail winds in a loop around the whole peninsula, starting near the calm waters of the town and rising to rocky cliffs above crashing waves

On the trail Andrea spotted a sign indicating that Yeats had lived in this house from 1880-83  No doubt he was inspired by sweeping views of the coast.

Bailey Lighthouse (1814)

At times the trail became very narrow and dense with ferns.   A machete would have been helpful.  Not sure if it was due to it being a weekday, or the bit of drizzle, but we had the trail mostly to ourselves.  John and Andrea did say that during the weekends the area is packed with people.

The town itself did seem to be a tourist stop - we noticed some tour buses and student groups.  Apparently, the area is also a very exclusive place to live for the Irish rich and famous.  We did pass a few very large homes - quite secluded and with spectacular views.

Wild flowers were also present in abundance.

Irish Thistle

As at Cliffs of Moher, these coastal cliffs were also filled with nesting birds.

It occurred to Jim while we were on this 4 hour hike, that the day (July 4th) would have been his mom's 85th birthday.  Quite special that we were spending it with her maternal first cousins.

Andrea, John and Jim (in Ireland, he is James)

Break time

Jim was appropriately cautious at the Cliffs of Moher, but now he had his opportunity to climb some coastal rocks and up he scrambled.

The trail continued around and we had views of Dublin and Dun Loagharie (where we had been at the start of the trip to visit the James Joyce Tower).









After 4 hours we were back to the town, passing by this field of daisies and poppies.

The other discovery made at the end of the hike was Jim's "find" of these three hubcaps buried behind the shrubs.

Significant in that our primary task for the next day was to try and replace a hubcap on the car.  In one of those moments when I had to lean away from the left side of the car as Jim made a too-tight left turn (one of my "Jim, you are veering left" warnings), he had clipped the curb.  As he would tell you himself, he does the same thing at home on left turns - its about the peripheral vision...Anyway, he made the too-close turn and off popped the hubcap and rolled down the street!  We were able to put it back on, but it looked pretty banged up.  With the house-trade/car trade, you want to  do the right thing and replace things you use, and deal with anything that you damage.  Unfortunately, none of these abandoned hubcaps would do the trick!  So, without hubcap in hand, we settled on a lovely, well-deserved lunch in Howth, and more conversation and laughs with Andrea and John.  

We headed back to Skerries with Andrea to have a last visit and dinner with everybody - almost all.  Mick had headed back to England earlier in the day as he needed to deal with the sale of their house there; Eimer and crew couldn't make it over as kids had gone to bed early.  But Barnie was visiting from Longford, and Dee and the two little ones put together a dinner of salad and pizza.  James and Chloe kept running into the room asking us about each item we might like on our pizza - so cute.

On Saturday, we headed off to order the hubcap, but to no avail.  The dealership did not have an open service department.  So, we are setting aside the 50 Euro to leave here to cover the expense.  With the day free, we decided to head back in to Dublin one last time: visit a few museums, eat boxty, and shop on Grafton Street.

It was a good day for in-door stuff as it was drizzling on and off, which had not been predicted by Accuweather, so we were in the city without jackets or umbrellas.  

I had decided that we needed to give modern art in Dublin another chance after the "hanging turd" display at the Museum of Modern Art.  

The Hugh Lane Municipal Gallery of Modern Art was SO much better.  The design and architecture of the inside of the building (a former town house) was as interesting as the collection.  A very bright/light museum.  The collection rotates between here and the National Gallery in London.  One of the more interesting exhibits was the recreation of  Francis Bacon's London studio - in all its chaotic mess.  A video-taped interview played continuously providing first person insight into his creative, if not chaotic process: “This mess here around us is rather like my mind; it may be a good image of what goes on inside me, that’s what it’s like, my life is like that.” We also enjoyed a visiting exhibit of Eva Rothschild sculptures.  Yes, there is a good modern art museum in Dublin!

Early in the trip, Jim had noticed "The Gallagher Boxty House" restaurant in the Temple Bar section of Dublin and had wanted to go there.  Boxty is a traditional Irish potato pancake - and one of  Jim's favorite Irish foods in his mother's repertoire.  

Boxty appetizer - not as good as "mom used to make"

Not quite how Jim's mom used to make it, but still good.

Some of you may have seen Jim's comments on Facebook about the "shopping" part of the day, but will post here as well:

Travel Tip #86: Don't shop at the END of
a four week diet of bread, butter, potatoes,
stout and NO gym

Travel Tip #87: Console yourself with the best
Gelato in Dublin.  Thanks Deirdre Walls
for the suggestion

Travel Tip #88:  Find an exclusive, classy
upscale men's clothier to accommodate
one's newly acquired regal bearing

Heading back to the bus stop, we passed the National Museum (Archeology) and decided this would be our FINAL tourist stop of the trip.  Another beautiful building - domed rotunda, marble pillars, mosaic tile floors.  It housed mostly items found in Ireland as well as an Egyptian collection.  What was most interesting was the "Bog Bodies".  When we were in the gardens at Kylemore Abbey, we had noticed some piles of peat.  Then, driving around the Connemara, we had passed many "peat" farms.  While our understanding was that the value of peat its use as a fuel, it apparently is quite a preservative as well. The museum had several Iron Age (600BC) bodies that were found in bogs very recently.  The level of details preserved (finger nails, hair) made them both fascinating and creepy.  Many other items in the museum were taken from bogs - including clothing.  

That brings us to the end of our trip.  We head out tomorrow morning (Monday), so today has been about getting organized, packing, etc.  I had booked a cab to take us to the airport, but Andrea texted this morning and insists on taking us even though it is not at all convenient.  But we cherish another hour of these wonderful cousins.

On Friday the cousins were asking what has been the high point of the trip.  That is too impossible to answer.  It has been filled with such special moments, incredible sights, impressive views, absorbing history, warm and friendly people, and connecting with family and culture.  We didn't do everything on our Ireland bucket list - we didn't make it to Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains, or travel to the north beyond New Grange or Connemara, or go to the Aran Island, or....Ah...next time!

Bye for now ... 

"Slan abhaile!" (means "safe home" in Irish)

The 14 Tribes, The 12 Bens,and 690 Foot Cliffs

From the beach Promenade in Galway,looking out to the
Aran Islands, and beyond that, Boston

Monday morning we headed out on the 2 hour drive from Dublin to Galway, on the west coast.  Such an easy drive after the winding, narrow roads of the Dingle and Kerry Peninsulas!  

Our first stop was Teach Na Coirbe B&B.  Teach, pronounced "chock" is gaelic for "house" and Coirbe is the river that runs through Galway.  B&B's in Ireland are abundant and vary in quality, but you are guaranteed a room everywhere you go, which was great for us as we were making travel decisions on the fly.  Bookings.com, which provided photos and reviews had served us well thus far and Teach Na Coirbe was no exception.  Our hosts were warm and welcoming as if we were visiting their own home, which we were.  Within minutes we learned that their daughter lives in San Francisco, working for LinkedIn.  The Irish feel such a tremendous kinship with Americans given that millions that have emigrated to the US for decades and continue to do so as the economic boom referred to as the "Celtic Tiger" collapsed.  Boston, they say, is "just west" of Ireland. 

B&B in Galway

Once settled, we met up with cousin-in-law David Walls who was graciously conscripted by cousin Andrea to take us around Galway.  We could not have asked for a better guide.  Galway was our kingdom for the day.  Best of all we didn't have to drive, navigate or make decisions.  We did a mix of driving and walking around Galway and surrounding areas.  In the center of the city is the main city square - Eyre square.  

The flags surrounding it represent the 14 Merchant families (referred to as "tribes") that founded the city.  

The square also had plaque for JFK, who visited the site in June 1963, promising to return the following spring.  Unfortunately he visited Dallas before he could return.   Ireland is obviously very proud of their Irish son who became president of the United States.  They are also proud of Obama, who apparently has an Irish relative - while driving back from Dingle we saw HUGE signs with Obama's picture encouraging visits to this small town - have a pint where Obama did!

Pedestrian area of city center

Galway is a college town.  This building reminded us a lot of the colleges of Oxford University

The Corrib river funds through the center of the city.  You can see the University across the river.

So many European cities have rivers through the center, but this is the first time that we've seen fly fisherman in the river!  Fishermen get a "spot" in the river through a daily lottery.

Older fisherman working hard;
younger one having a pint

After lunch we headed to the peninsulas to the north of the city to visit the lower part of the Connemara. Connemara is famous for it's breathtaking coast and is a destination point for visitors to Ireland.  David brought us to the Connemara rarely seen by tourists.  Much of the Connemara is barren, bleak, very rocky, filled with bogs.  It is a harsh environment and not suited for sustainable farming. Common lore is that Cromwell punished Irish rebels in the 1640's by giving them the option of an instant death in the east or slow death in the west; "to hell or to Connacht"  

Our "tour guide" David

View of the 12 Bens mountain range

Tunes in the Church program of traditional Irish Music

Our B&B was about 20 minute walk from city centre, so after David dropped us back we decided to check out an Indian Restaurant we had seen while walking earlier in the day.  As the B&B owner was inquiring about our evening plans, she gave us a rave review of the food there, so that sealed the deal.  We have been missing our bay area food variety (other than in Dublin).  We had also noticed a sign for a concert of traditional Irish music at a church not far from the restaurant, and caught the last 30 minutes.  Made us a little sleepy, but interesting to hear the music as well as some of the information about the traditional music and instruments.

David had been such a thorough tour guide and had arranged to take us to Cliffs of Moher on Wednesday, that we didn't really need to spend another day seeing Galway.  After dinner we browsed our tour books, kept checking mileage between spots and debating about spending another day in the car, and finally settled on visiting Kylemore Abbey on Tuesday.

At breakfast the B&B owner asked about our plans for the day, said the Abbey was spectacular but suggested adding to the day instead of going straight there.  Since she had been spot on about the Indian food, we decided to follow her route.  Ended up being a full day trip, but so worth it.  Brought us around the coast, through the Connemara, to the Bens, and back to Galway along the Corrib Lough.  She was very excited to route us through the village of Cong where the John Wayne/Maureen O'Hara move The Quiet Man was made.

Our first stop was in the charming seaside town of Clifden.  Not being sure about when we would get hungry and how available restaurants would be along some of the remote roads, we went in to a mom and pop deli/cheese shop to get sandwiches to go.  Ended up taking about 15 minutes for the husband to figure out the cappuccino machine (and based on the weak product,  he didn't figure it out), and then another 15 to make the sandwiches (they were well worth it).  The wife indicated that she just did the cheese - he was the sandwich guy.  But while we waited we enjoyed some of the local banter and gossip as folks came in to buy their cheese.

Clifden

From there we took the Sky Road scenic (narrow and winding, but at least hardly any cars) 7 mile drive around the peninsula

This narrow and winding road was much easier than the ones
in Kerry and Dingle

Heading inland towards Kylemore Abbey, the landscape changed and we had our best view yet of the 12 Bens - are at least some of them.

The Kylemore Abbey is a lakeside former castle that has been various things throughout the years.  Its beginning is quite romantic.  It was built as a present for his wife by tycoon Mitchell Henry.  After the sudden deaths of his wife and daughter, Henry left Kylemore and the castle was sold.  It then became an Abbey when Benedictine nuns fleeing from Belgium during World War I sought refuge here.  For many years, up until 2010, the nuns ran a girls' boarding school.  While some of the abbey rooms can be toured, nuns still live there on the upper levels and craft items for the gift shop.

Kylemore Lough with the Bens off in the distance

The chapel

Children's Choir from Boston performing inside

Part of the original estate is a walled Victorian garden.  The land used was originally a bog, which makes its grandeur even more impressive.

A shuttle bus brings you back to the parking lot and who do we see waiting in line to get on the shuttle - our Dingle/Kerry travel friends from Arizona!  We shared a quick laugh and update and then were on our way.

In spite of not really caring about where a John Wayne movie was filmed, the timing was good for a pit stop and late afternoon snack, so stop we did in Cong.

Statue in the town square - John Wayne
and Maureen O'Hara

Lot's of references to the movie, cafe named "The Quiet Man", etc.  But also some historic sites including the ruins of Cong Abbey (early 1100s)

and this Monk's Fishing Hut, built right over the bank 

so that the river flowed beneath it.  They lowered a net through the floor and attached a bell to the rope; whenever a fish was netted the bell would ring.

Peaceful stroll along the river - water was clear enough to see the rock formations below.

As we returned to the town square area, we spotted a tour bus unloading (maybe full of John Wayne fans??) so we quickly went in to closest cafe and split a piece of coffee walnut cake (gobbled quickly so no photo) and headed back to Galway.

Wednesday was dedicated to the Cliffs of Moher - and with David as our chauffeur and tour guide.  We enjoyed getting to know him better, some good political discussions as well as lots of laughs.  

The Cliffs of Moher was one of those places that you see photos of (like the Grand Canyon or Niagra Falls) and you don't expect to be that impressed - but then you are more than impressed?  Well, add Cliffs of Moher to that list.

The 8 km stretch of cliffs rise to a height of 690 feet and are simply breathtaking.  The face of the cliffs are layers of black shale and sandstone.  There are paths along the cliffs that start with a memorial to those who have lost their lives there.  I guess that it is less than subtle warning to stay on the paths.

So here goes...pictures worth more than my words

The very tiny specks on the top of the cliffs are people!
Just to give you a sense of how massive these cliffs are...

Living on the edge...

As close as I would get to the edge

 Birds nesting on the sheltered ledges

Stopped for lunch in Lahinch - a popular surfing beach

 The final part of our day was driving through the Burren - name means "rocky land"in Gaelic.  It consists of plateaus and mountainsides of limestone

The Burren is just beyond the farmlands

A closer view

We stopped to tour the Ailwee Caves which provided the underground view of the Burren.  It was one of hundreds of caves carved out by rivers during the Ice Age.  There were even the remains of Brown bears which would hibernate in the winters but have been extinct in Ireland for over a thousand years.

It began to drizzle as we exited the caves, so seemed like good timing to head back to Galway to pick up our car and head home to Dublin.

The next few days are predicting rain, so we will see what happens.  We have a hike planned with the cousins for tomorrow, so that may change. But we have no complaints - the weather overall has been perfect and has not (up to now) interfered with our plans.  We have done most of our bucket list for this trip - and some things that weren't even on it - so if we just hang out and relax for a few days, that would be fine!