Our internet access has been sketchy again, so bear with us if we can’t post as regularly or respond to your emails. We seem to have lost the internet service in the house, although this morning Jim has discovered that we can access an unlocked wireless signal from the window ledge in the bathroom/laundry room - and at least it is a big room so I'm not having to sit on the toilet to write this...
We spent Sunday just relaxing here at the house – lovely breeze through all of the windows and enjoying reading, napping, and taking in this lovely view. Laurie invited us to join her on her shopping trip to the souk here in Haifa. Spread out over several blocks it was more open-air than the dense, narrow one in Akko. Picked up some fruit and veggies as well as some general grocery items lower priced than in the grocery store. She also gave us a bit of driving tour of some parts of Haifa that we had not yet seen . We also walked around Technion (considered the MIT of Israel). It is a beautiful campus up on the hill. Talked about the differences in college students here – they do not start, due to the military service until they are in the early 20s so campus life is quite different – not the party atmosphere like colleges in the states.
On Monday we drove an hour inland to the Sea of Galilee (Lake Kenneret/Lake Tiberias). It is the chief source of water for the country and is fed in the north and drained in the south by the Jordan river. Located 696 feet below sea level – driving down we actually passed the marker indicating we were at sea level (the photo above is from that spot - although hazy at in the morning so hard in the photo to see the lake) – it is very hot. And not in the Paris Hilton “that’s so hot!” way – but truly dripping with sweat hot. We were even a bit tempted to join the families at a water slide park that we passed.
We started out in Tiberias on the west side of the lake and the largest town there and then headed south for a drive around the lake – not exactly the direction we had planned, but unclear signage produced that result. Our first stop was Yardenet – the Baptism site on the south end of the lake where the Jordan river starts up again. It supposedly quite near to the spot where Jesus was baptized.
Expecting large crowds of religious tourists, we instead found a fairly empty parking lot and had the place to ourselves. And wonderful shade!
Driving along the east shore of the lake, dotted with farmlands/kibbutzim – many of which also have resort centers, we found another empty historic spot. Kursi has the remains of a 5th/6th century Byzantine church.
In spite of the heat, we climbed up the hill to the old chapel site with a spectacular view of the lake. No jelly fish here, but lots of centipedes (I think) on the steps up. Did I mention how HOT it was? No breezes down here at sea level, at least in the morning (ended up quite windy in the afternoon; I could barely hold my camera straight – but not a cool wind; at least enough to dry off the perspiration).
We backtracked a bit as we got to the north end of the lake – due to the timing of things being open/closed, but also because we were low on gas and where on the east side of the lake we passed several gas stations – nothing on the north side. Heading back towards Tiberias we finally found one – this would have been the worst place to have to walk to a gas station. I did mention how HOT it was, right?
At this point we were starving and had also not passed any place to eat. Since we still had some spots to see on the north side, we headed back to find a place that my cousin Robbie and Laurie had said was a “must see” – Domus Galilee. While we knew from the website they would not re-open until 3 p.m. we recalled that Robbie mentioned a café across the street. A good meal, interesting décor (mountain hunting lodge?). With our car full of gas (although our credit card seems to only allow for a half-tank – we need to figure that out) and our appetites sated, we finished our north/northwest stops.
Back down the west side to Kibbutz Nof Ginosar where there is a museum housing a 2000 year old boat.
It was discovered by two brothers from the kibbutz during the severe drought of 1986 – lake was very low and some wood/nails were spotted.
A short film at the exhibit documented the 11 day excavation and how the boat was pulled from the mud and then floated to shore. Fascinating story – they ended up basically packing the weak and waterlogged hull in a cocoon of fiberglass and polyurethane foam, and then floated it to shore where it underwent a eleven year conservation process.
Researchers suggest it is the type of fishing boat used among Jesus’ Disciples, as well as those used by the Jews against the Romains in the Battle of Migdal.
Other stops included Capernaum (primary spot of Jesus’ teachings in the Galilee; home of many of his disciples),
Korazim and the Mount of the Beatitudes (where we encountered another group of Chinese religious tourists
– this time belting out hymns – quite well – in the church), where we also had a lovely view looking down at Capernaum.
and Domus Galilee – a center of Catholic learning located on the hills of Korazim. Here we were given a tour of this incredible structure, built for the visit of Pope John II. Our tour guide was Eric from the Congo. He explained that it is a center for prayer and religious education – almost like a monastery, but not for monks.
Below there is also a seminary. He had been there for a year. I wasn’t able to get decent pictures of the library due to the bright light from outside and the amount of glass/reflection, but in the center of the domed reading room, as a torah symbolizing the center of the universe. On the ceiling were constellation lights. Really, quite a place. Did I mention it was HOT? I guess that part of being pious is not having air conditioning…There were strong, hot winds though.
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